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Travel & Food
August 3, 2022

Advanced Sommelier, Cynthia Betancourt, Uncorks Washington Wines

Post By:
Cynthia Betancourt
In-House Contributor
Restaurateur & Advanced Sommelier
Ishilima
Guest Contributor:

The northwestern part of the United States is often overlooked, but it’s home to a truly unique state: Washington. Most of us think of the dynamic city of Seattle (Space Needle, anyone?), but the most interesting part of this state lies outside its urban centers altogether. Over the Cascade Mountains lies a wine region that is rapidly growing and making some truly stellar wines. 

Washington’s wine country is an underrated treasure trove of high-quality wines for the true connoisseur and casual taster alike. Why should it be overshadowed by its California counterparts? There is so much to know about this stunning region and its rich history, and it all comes together to enhance the wine-tasting experience.

Want to impress the wine-lover in your life? Are you one yourself? Look no further. Here’s everything you need to know about the marvelous magic of Washington wines!

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Washington ranks second in wine production for the U.S.; however, it’s mostly consumed within its own borders. Did you know the eastern side of Washington only gets about 7-8  inches of rainfall on an average? I know what you’re thinking… desert-like conditions, in Washington? There sure are, and that’s what makes it so ideal for growing grapes. Why? 

If the grapes easily get everything they want (in this instance: water, nutrients, and sunshine), their roots won’t work as hard to dig deep in the soils to search out what the soil has to offer. Therefore, they won’t produce quality wine. Like children, they become spoiled. The Cascade Mountain Range offers a rain shadow effect that blocks all the rain coming from the Pacific Ocean. It’s quite amazing to see the drastic change visible when you fly over from Seattle… with a glass of sparkling wine, of course!

History

The wine history in Washington dates back to the late 1800s; however, the popularity of their wine country only blossomed around the late 1970s, with its attention on Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. The grape varieties grown here have expanded to Chardonnay, Riesling, Syrah, Sangiovese, Viognier, and even Spanish varieties such as Tempranillo. 

For the most part (until recently), land was considerably cheaper than its California counterparts, which lent itself to more experimentation with other grape varieties. Because it is further north, Washington gets one more hour of sunshine than California. The soil plays a big part in the complexities of the wine from volcanic activity and the prehistoric Missoula floods. The floods created tremendous pressure that forced a palate of different soils to be created: basalt, granite, loess, alluvial, etc.

Grapes came first from European settlers, and grape growing started way before Washington became the 42nd state. Back then, its focus was bulk wine and hybrid grapes, and the progression came to a halt with Prohibition. In 1954, American Wine Growers became Chateau Ste. Michelle, the largest winery in Washington and advocate for bringing Vinifera grapes.  

Did I mention Washington had a local prohibition prior to the federal prohibition that stifled much of the development for wine in any of our states? But let’s leave that in the past. Thanks to tenacious pioneers like Walter Clore and Allen Shoup, collaborations with reputable winemakers put Washington on the industry map. Large wineries sprouted during the ‘80s and lead the pack to this day. Presently, 60% of the wine production in Washington is from the large wineries. Many winemakers who have worked at these establishments have gone on to open their own smaller, independent wineries. You can really sense the strong camaraderie here when you visit the Washington wine country.  

Notable Regions

The largest and best-known region is Columbia Valley. It encompasses only 11 million acres, but is home to some of the sub-districts you may see on wine labels, such as: 

Walla Walla – Here it is slightly more lush green, due to the Blue Mountain Range. It offers stunning Merlots and Cabernet Sauvignon. The best onions are also here, if you ever want to make an onion dip for your chips!  

Yakima Valley – The oldest vines are found here and are known for growing Bordeaux Varietals (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot). 

Red Mountain- This plateau within Yakima has high elevation and is dryer than the land down below. Breathtaking, by the way, when you are at the top! 

Wahluke Slope – This riverbend crescent meaning “Watering Hole” gets a mere 6 inches of rain.  It is a fairly new district and makes some Rieslings and Red varieties.

Horse Heaven Hills – Some of the most prestigious wineries are located here, like Andrew Will and Quilceda Creek.

Something For Everyone

Why Washington wines? DIVERSITY! Here we have the pioneers that paved the way for many punk rock farmers and winemakers. The young dynamic wineries that are out there are critically acclaimed and have received prestigious notoriety. Even sought-after cult wines are in some of the best wine cellars and wine lists in the nation. To name a few: Leonetti Cellars (quality Merlot and Sangiovese), Cayuse (rhone varietals, cult status wines), Quilceda Creek, Owen Roe, Greg Harrington at Gramercy Cellars, Kerry Shiels from Cote Bonneville, and so many more!

This area still hasn’t been bombarded with traffic or opulence. It offers some great restaurants that have the best agriculture right in their backyard. The versatility in all the wines Washington has to offer can be paired with just about any dish or occasion you are getting ready for. We offer a Poet’s Leap, Riesling with our Imperial spicy ceviche. Not a fan of fish? A Merlot, Syrah, or Cabernet will go exquisitely with your steak. 

We dive deep into spectacular wine regions like this in our monthly wine classes, which feature carefully curated line-ups of wine tastings masterfully paired with light bites that bring these regions to life. I am your guide, Advanced Sommelier, Cynthia Betancourt. Join me for our next class and embrace your love of wine! “Go big or go home” is my personal motto, but in this case: go big or stay home drinking that boring wine!